Fernand Point: The Father of Modern French Cuisine

A Master Chef Who Defied the Nazis to Preserve His Culinary Integrity and Inspired Generations of Chefs, Including the Legendary Paul Bocuse

Fernand Point, born on February 25, 1897, in Louhans, France, is widely regarded as the father of modern French cuisine, but largely unknown in the US. He opened the iconic restaurant La Pyramide in Vienne, near Lyon, in 1922, where he quickly established a reputation for culinary excellence. Under his leadership, La Pyramide became one of the most celebrated restaurants in the world, earning three Michelin stars. Point was known for his meticulous attention to detail, emphasis on fresh ingredients, and the elevation of French cooking techniques.

In many ways, Point defined the flavors that we know today as French cuisine.

Point chose to close his restaurant, La Pyramide, during World War II, in part because he refused to serve the Nazis. When France was occupied by Germany, many high-end restaurants and establishments faced pressure to serve German officers and collaborators. Point, however, was adamant - somehow managing to close La Pyramide from 1940 to 1945, without facing persecution from the Nazis. Point continued to mentor other chefs during the war and maintained close personal relationships with most of his providers.

One of Point’s most famous protégés is Paul Bocuse, who went on to become a legendary figure in the culinary world and is likely better known in the US as well. Bocuse, who worked under Point in the 1940s, credited him with teaching the importance of precision, simplicity, and the highest standards in cooking. Paul Bocuse later became a driving force behind the Nouvelle Cuisine movement, which revolutionized French cooking by emphasizing lighter, more delicate dishes made with the freshest ingredients—a philosophy directly inspired by Point's teachings.

Fernand Point’s most famous recipe is Poulet en Vessie (Chicken in a Bladder), which is what it says it is: a whole chicken cooked inside a pig’s bladder, which is inflated and sealed. The chicken is steamed in its own juices along with truffles, foie gras, and aromatics, resulting in an incredibly moist and flavorful dish. Precisely what conversation brought the idea of putting a bird inside of a pig’s bladder to mind, I could only imagine.

There are specialized stands for this dish, it seems.

Fernand Point’s Poulet en Vessie (Chicken in a Bladder):

Note:

This really, truly would be a lot easier to do with a roasting bag in the oven.

I’ve offered alternatives, but once you get rid of the foie gras, then the truffle, then the pig’s bladder, it’s just not the same recipe, is it?

Ingredients:

- 1 whole chicken (3-4 lbs)

- 1 pig’s bladder – or roasting bag, or aluminum foil, for goodness sake

- 1 small black truffle, sliced (optional)

- 4 slices (3.5oz) of foie gras

- 2 garlic cloves, crushed

- 1 small onion, chopped

- Fresh thyme sprigs

- Salt and pepper

- 1 cup dry white wine

Method:

1. Prepare the Chicken:

   - Season the chicken with salt and pepper.

   - If using, slip truffle slices and foie gras under the skin.

   - Place garlic, onion, and thyme inside the chicken cavity.

2. Place Chicken in Bladder:

   - Gently place the chicken inside the pig’s bladder.

   - Inflate the bladder slightly and tie it securely. I assume that you need to inflate it like a balloon.

3. Cook the Chicken:

   - Steam the bladder in a pot with white wine and water for 2 hours.

4. Serve:

   - Carefully cut open the bladder and serve. At Point’s restaurant, this was always done tableside where the whole chicken was brought out in a roasted balloon, more or less. The servers would theatrically pop open the pig’s bladder to unveil the roasted chicken with a cloud of aromatic steam.